Ortenau region

Thomas & Andrew –

THE MEN FROM MOOSBACHHOF

Chickens behind the house, bees in the hive, and tomatoes in front of the terrace: at Thomas and Andrew Huber's, garden enthusiasts and gourmets alike are in the right place.

TEXT: ULF TIETGE · PHOTOS: DIMITRI DELL

There's more to Thomas and Andrew Huber than meets the eye. One could recount their love story, their games of hide-and-seek, and their time in Saudi Arabia, where Thomas managed the Waldorf Astoria in Jedda for the ultra-conservative royal family, its most exclusive suite measuring 1,000 square meters… Or one could tell of their fresh start after their time with the Green Tomatoes in Southampton and their takeover of a rather run-down guesthouse somewhere deep in the Black Forest. "Somewhere," however, isn't quite accurate. We're looking down from the terrace of the new Gasthof Moosbach at the Nordrach Valley; to the left, the Mooskopf mountain rises 975 meters into the sky. Hoferer's Forest Guesthouse used to hide here from the rest of the world. Built sometime in the 1800s, expanded in 1924, and by 2014 only for connoisseurs. Or, indeed, for Andrew and Thomas.

The couple have brought their four rooms up to the standard of a five-star inn, cleared out and redecorated the dining room, spruced up the house, earned a gold loyalty card at the hardware store, and created what is perhaps Baden's most English cottage-style garden. "I don't have delphiniums in the usual four colors found in Germany, but in 70," Andrew says proudly, giving us a quick tour of his domain. Cactus dahlias, lupins, roses, and countless tomatoes in tubs and pots—Andrew has long been trading in cuttings, and yet some guests still manage to bring him a flower he doesn't yet have.

Behind the garden, the bees are busy at work. The Hubers make their own honey, they keep ducks and geese whose eggs they use for breakfast, and they make use of the old distilling rights. They make cider from the surrounding apple trees, serve spritzers made with homemade currant juice, and of course, a rich selection of homemade jams and chutneys. All of this is done not in the style of eccentric loners, but with the quality that Thomas has always demanded in the kitchens of his career: The man trained at Bareiss, worked for international Michelin-starred restaurants, and fulfilled his childhood dream after his time at the Waldorf Astoria. "No, he's not talking about me," says Andrew. "He's had the idea of owning his own house for ages, and he's always missed his homeland. No matter where we were." Meanwhile, he's busy behind the bar, serving a Pimm's, a Harvey Wallbanger, and a Kir Moosbach. Thomas, meanwhile, is bustling about in his tiny kitchen. Instead of sausage salad with fried potatoes, he conjures up a twice-baked goat cheese soufflé on apple and leaf salad, prepares sushi with Black Forest trout, serves perfectly cooked venison medallions (from hunters in Nordrach) with chanterelles from that morning, and hot chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream. Next door, there are scoops and cones, a brilliant club sandwich with medium-rare Angus beef and baked garlic, followed by his own brownies and petit fours to finish. Wow!

“We’re satisfied,” says Thomas after his whirlwind tour of the menu. “We have several companies looking for authentic Black Forest flair, but at the same time expecting international standards, and they’re pleased that we speak decent English.” The inn is especially busy on New Year’s Eve – and Thomas is venturing into an evening of considerable challenge. He’s planned seven courses. Thirty people are booked – more than twice that number wanted to celebrate the New Year up in Nordrach. No fear of snow? “Not at all,” says Andrew. “Nordrach’s snowplow drivers are the best in the world. The road is cleared less than 20 minutes after it snows.”

From early spring until November, hikers flock to the area on weekends – specifically from Offenburg or the Rench Valley. On his website, computer scientist Andrew presents a variety of hiking tours: from one to six hours, there's something for everyone.

“The Black Forest is a blueprint for the whole planet,” Andrew says suddenly, looking dead serious despite the German-English mishmash. “Here, everything is as it should be. No poison. We don’t use pesticides, we don’t work against nature, but with it. And we take the time for simply good things, I mean: That’s the Black Forest attitude, isn’t it?”

When it does, it tastes wonderful. Of course, the fig trees could bear more fruit and get more sun up here. At 600 meters above sea level, the banana and olive trees are more ornamental than edible. On the other hand, Thomas and Andrew's green tomato chutney was also born out of necessity and is a reminder of their time in Southampton. "English summer," says Thomas. "The tomatoes just wouldn't ripen."

Preparation: Heat all ingredients while stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Then simmer gently for about an hour and a half until the mixture has thickened. Pour into previously sterilized jars and let cool. → The chutney will then keep for about a year.

"But I couldn't bring myself to throw them away."

Speaking of hearts. One could violently attack the foxes and martens, the hawks and buzzards, that regularly snatch one of the chickens. Thomas and Andrew, on the other hand, have built a coop and call their poultry to bed every evening. The effort is worthwhile: The 45 black-headed vendace may lay fewer eggs than their counterparts in large battery cages – but the quality is also different. "If you like the chicken eggs, you should also try the poached goose eggs," says Thomas, and takes me into his kitchen. There's a continuation of the little feast from earlier. What a glorious day!

An English garden in the Black Forest: Andrew is so successful with his green thumb that some people travel to Nordrach just for his delphiniums…

Green tomato chutney

Ingredients:

• 1 kg green tomatoes
• 240 g onions
• 400g apples
• 150 g brown sugar
• 240 g raisins
• 11. Brown wine vinegar
• 1.5 tsp mustard powder
• 1 tsp ground cinnamon
• ¼ tsp ground cloves
• ¼ tsp cayenne pepper

Preparation: Roughly dice the green tomatoes and onions, slice the apples.

Homemade

Thomas and Andrew Huber are committed to serving Nova Regio cuisine at their Moosbachhof inn. Eggs, honey, juices, herbs and salads, jams, and chutneys are all homemade. With a bit of luck, you might even be able to take some of the large goose eggs home with you. Learn more about the Moosbach inn at moosbach-schwarzwald.com

Here the roles are clearly defined: Thomas is in the kitchen of their shared inn, Moosbach – Andrew, meanwhile, takes care of the garden, the website, and mixes the occasional drink…