Dense forests, gentle hills and hearty cuisine

– In the southwest of Baden-Württemberg, nature lovers and gourmets will find plenty to enjoy.

Hiking works up an appetite – luckily, the 15-kilometer Harmersbach Vesper Trail in the central Black Forest doesn't neglect your physical well-being. At the Donissi Farm's shop, our group buys packed lunches with homemade black pudding and ham. Then the trail leads gently uphill. Along the way, wooden artworks, such as the 35-meter-long picnic bench carved from a single silver fir trunk, invite hikers to linger and, of course, enjoy a delicious meal. Various seating options have been incorporated into the tree trunk, allowing hikers to enjoy not only the view of the valley but also their first refreshment.

The Black Forest is a hiker's paradise: 160 kilometers long, up to 60 kilometers wide, with forests in the north and panoramic views stretching to the Alps in the south. Whether spring, summer, autumn, or winter, hiking is possible year-round in the Black Forest. Over 24,000 kilometers of well-marked trails make the region perhaps Germany's most beautiful hiking area. Sturdy footwear and hiking poles are always recommended.

"Only where you have walked, have you truly been." – Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Prince of Poets

But back to the Vesperweg (snack trail). Thirsty hikers can find water along the way for a small fee – or fruit brandy from the surrounding farms, sometimes served in a hollowed-out tree trunk, sometimes chilled in a fountain. We descend to the Harkhof farm, just in time before a thunderstorm breaks. Delicious country café cake and coffee make it no problem.

Stories of the Forest Spirit Moospfaff

The next day, a good foundation is needed. Therefore, we fortify ourselves in the morning at the Haashof farm above the village of Nordrach with homemade bread, sausage, Bibeleskäs (a type of fresh cheese), and jams, courtesy of the warm-hearted farmer Antonia. We were even allowed to collect the eggs ourselves from her chicken coop.

On the 20-kilometer-long Fruit Distillers' Trail, farmer Zetzel, in real life Michaela Neuberger from the Nordrach tourism team, is a wonderful companion. She slips into different roles for guided tours, recounting tales of the forest spirit Moospfaff and other legends along the way. Fascinating! The trail leads through an orchard to the Heidenbühl Farm.

A little sip to your health!

There, Martina Webering, a trained sommelier specializing in fine spirits, presents her unusual fruit brandies and liqueurs. Quince, berries, herbs – of course, everything must be tasted. "Just for your health," as farmer Zetzel emphasizes.

The production of fruit brandy has a long tradition in the Black Forest. Fruit brandy, often also called Obstbrand or Obstwasser, is distilled from various fruits, especially apples and pears, but also plums, mirabelle plums, or cherries. A famous example of fruit brandy is Schwarzwälder Kirschwasser, which is made from wild cherries. Fruit brandy is also popular in cooking, for example in the famous Black Forest cherry cake or as an ingredient in fruit salads.

And us? In the evening we end the day in a wine tavern (a broom in front of the door indicates whether it is open) with tarte flambée and a beer – wonderful.

Tips and Highlights

LOCATIONThe Kinzig Valley stretches southeast from Offenburg through the central Black Forest. Nordrach (Obstbrennerweg) lies 25 kilometers east of Offenburg. The Harmersbach Valley (Vesperweg) forms a side branch of the Kinzig Valley.

ARRIVALTake the bus and train (via Offenburg and Hausach) to Wolfach (Kinzigtal), for example. From there, regional buses and trains continue their journey. Or visit www.bahn.de

GUEST CARDThe KONUS guest card serves as a free travel ticket for buses and regional trains in the Black Forest region. It is available from approximately 9,000 participating accommodation providers.

www.schwarzwald-tourismus.info

IDYLLICHidden behind gently rolling hills lie farms where a hearty snack is often served.

LANDMARKThe Stork Tower in Zell am Harmersbach is almost 700 years old and houses an exciting museum.

NATURALHikers can explore the Black Forest on well-marked trails.

HIGH PROTEINOn the Oberharmersbach snack trail, you can fortify yourself along the way with a homemade schnapps.

CREAMYNot your average Black Forest cherry cake: Inspired by a legend, pastry chef Egbert Laifer from Nordrach developed the Moospfaff cake. You can always burn off the calories while hiking.

TYPICALAt The Moosbach Garden Hotel near Nordrach, you can stay overnight and relax in the beautiful garden.